Mine had brown, blue, yellow wires. Brown positive, blue negative, yellow wasnt use. Mine were hooked up 12V I find if you buy from a supplier other bowfisherman use like Customfitz or SEELite they will imform you of the wiring code. Beware of the ebay & others on-line suppliers. I found out with a converter once, when I should went through Garrett instead. I found that you can alway rely on Customfitz & SEELites for questions "if" you purchased the lights from them. Remember sometime paying cheap doesnt always come out the way you was hoping for. Look into these 2 companies, lots of bowfishing folks have and done business with them.
I ran my wiring to marine grade 50amp bus bars, (2) on each side or positive & negitive connections. Color code your wiring with red & black, blacking being negative. I used troller motor plugs too, this way I can disconnect my deck and remove it after unpluging it if I need to do work or add more lights (like in 1st picture). Another is switches, use a outdoor type waterproof switch (like in 2nd picture), troller motor dont matter what you paid for it, get a 50amp breaker (for troller motors) or connect a 50 amp fuse & fuse connector, trollers are too dang expenisive nowdays I have both. Wiring size for "my" lights I went with 10ga. woven copper wire, try not to have butt joint in your wiring. Run full runs (lengths w/o cuts or spicing them). I had a master electrician help me and point good pointers for proper wiring . Another keep your wiring clean looking zip tied and together from run to run. This way it make for a nice clean looking and easy to track problems, my runs are labled in groups. I've seen some horrible wiring (viking funnel types) sorry about the pic, forgot to reset my camera settings from the other night. I use my under the deck area for storage, life jackets, tool kit. This way you can use the area under the deck for storage w/o having sloppy wiring hanging everywere or snagging on to wires. You'll be suprised how much wire you will use. Wire clips help too to keep your wiring from hanging or drooping. NO tape to hold them up. Tape will come loose. Take your time, think about every set you do and picture the over all look and you will have a good reliabile wiring job. NO SHORT CUTS, that equals problems
to any coating, prep work is the key, and what you use under & over the the camo print. For a good and proper weatherized, durable camo finish. Every part goes through a chemical de-greasing wash then threw a 95 degree hot water bath. This removes all unwanted gun oils, powder resiude from all parts. The parts are dryed under heat lamps. Metal parts are masked off for protecting the areas NOT to be re-finished in camo. Metal parts are media blasted with 120 gr. Alumi Oxide, plastic parts as of stocks, forearms & etc. will be media blasted in another cabinet blast with #8 glass beads at a low air pressure.. "WE DO NOT SCUFF or SAND your METAL or PLASTIC PARTS" This doesnt give a good clean solid workable surface. We dont trust anyones finish under ours whether its factory or after-market finishes. We dont use the typical water transfer printing coatings, we like high performance coating. All coatings we used are 2 stage catalyzed coatings, primers(match to the substrate) some firearms will have up to 3 different primers. WE DO NOT use a universal primer for all substrates, the base and finish are 2 stage catalyzed also. We believe that any coating with cross-linkers / hardeners will be a good weatherized duriable coating system. Our clear flat finish coating is made for our shop "only" and no one in the hydrographic printing industry has access to this product (I own the rights to it). This clear finish has an extreme resistance to the harshest bore solvents gun cleaners and scrubbers on the market, it is even resistant to "Gum Out Carburetor Cleaner, Brake Kleen, PB BLaster, Gun Scrubber, & Gunk Engine Brite”. Our clears are baked on with Infrared heaters for maxium durability & hardeness.
Clear Finishes Offered or the Hydrographic Camo, Our Custom Dead Flat Clear, Creakote Mirco Low Gloss Clear, Automotive Satin Finish.
all my firearms are my favorite or I wouldnt have/own them. I to shoot long range so built off a Savage 110E Long Action (the only thing left that is Savage) 7mm Mag, 140gr. Accu-Bond fps 3325, #4 Hart Barrel w/ JP Recoil Eliminator, Custom Bolt w/over-sized knob by Xtreme Gunworks, Choate Vertical Grip Stock, Vortex Viper Series Optics w/ TNT Custom Turrets 72 degree & 32 degree temp.
I own 14-48 Alumicraft w/ Beavertail pods, was my duck boat took me a year to complete the transition to a bowfishing boat. Why so long ? I thought out everything thing so I still have room to move around with out cutting up the boat too much. Weight is the biggie for smaller boat. My Almunicraft have a weight limit of 850lbs, & with the pods added I gained another prox 200lbs of floatation. Everything I added to the boat was made from light weight materials aluminuim was the big amount of material added. My deck framing made from 2" thick alumin angle & 1" thick wall aluminium tubing., Knee rail/light rail made from thin wall tubing 1" (lighting Customfitz LED's (2) 40W LED's 12V up front (6) 27W LED's 12V (3) on each side. The extention mounts for the lights LED's, I made from solid aluimium round stock cut to 3.5" chucked up in a lathe, drill & taped on both sides, & moly coated them black, trolling motor Watersnake 54" 54lb 12V) I removed a section of the rear bench 33" so my batteries & converter box fits nicely and out of the way with good weight distubition. I had a metal shop bend me a new bench top which I cut to fit and screwed on the 1" aluminium tubing frame I welded up. Converter Box (2) 55amp Powermax's with extra 12V cooling fan. I coated the bench tops with a product called Defender Bed Liner, I sprayed it. The kit came with a gun. My fish barrel blue plastic 55 gal barrel with 3/4" seat pin bolted to the bottom so my fish barrel will slide into a 3/4" boat seat pedistal (passenger seat in front of grab bar). This keeps my floor open to move around. My genny is 2500w inverter that weights 69lbs. My genny sits on the rear bench were my genny extention cord will reach & the converter box plugs into the male plug...... Fish finders (2)of them, Bottomline Side Finder with 2 tranducers (switch to select left side or right side located on the grab bar) and Bottomline Dept Finder. All this careful thinking keeps my rear floor of the boat clear as well. No stumbling around or walking over stuff. Careful thinking & planning not rushing into will make a smaller boat work very well with 1 person as I like to fish by my self mostly or 2 people.
Here's what has been added to the boat since the change from a duck hunting boat to a bowfishing boat 115lbs 2004 Merc Classic Long Shaft 80lbs Deck w/troller & lights & knee rail made from alumin & 1/2" marine ply w/glued rubber matting 118lbs 59lbs ea 2x 31 series deep cells 1 for troller, 1 for lights 46lbs cranking battery 10lbs converter box with 2 55amp converters, fans, all wiring 36lbs fuel in boat 69lbs 2500w inverter generator 35lbs extra's bow, cooler, misc. stuff 509 lbs w/o myself again my boat weight rating with pods is 1050lbs w/o pods 850lbs. my weight 252lbs , that is 761lbs I mainly fish by myself I like the quiet time to myself. So I add 200lbs of rough fish to the boat I'm still in my weight limit. My boat sits very well in the water now & no worries of swamping the boat with water.